Hands-on Experience: Bell & Ross Unveils the Avant-Garde Architectural BR-X3 Micro-Rotor Watch
A refreshing reinterpretation of the classic square case design.
We know and love Bell & Ross for its unwavering passion for aviation and its numerous timepieces inspired by flight instruments. However, the recently launched BR-X3 Micro-Rotor, a simplified version of last year's BR-X3 Micro-Rotor Tourbillon, takes a completely different approach. It has nothing to do with flight instruments, and the dial lacks the iconic skull motif. Yet, with its unconventional case and movement, it still showcases a sophisticated and avant-garde design. So, how should we evaluate it? Is it a true Bell & Ross watch?
Bell & Ross was founded in 1992 by childhood friends and university students Burno Belamich and Carlos Rosillo, and launched its first watch in 1994. After a decade of focusing on space and military-themed tool watches, the brand transformed with the BR 01, a timepiece that became a classic thanks to its "square within a circle" design. Inspired by flight instruments, the BR 01 paved the way for numerous aviation-themed watches. We witnessed the emergence of various timepieces, from stainless steel to ceramic and even precious metals, from simple hour displays to chronographs and tourbillon movements. The brand also dared to create more controversial watches, such as the Skull series and later the Cyber ��series.
First, the BR-X3 micro-rotor watch measures 40mm (width) x 40mm (length) and is only 9mm thick. It is significantly smaller and thinner than regular BR watches, making it more comfortable to wear (of course, a square watch has a greater presence than a round one). The downward-sloping short lugs help control the overall length, thus improving wearing comfort. The middle layer of the case is made of stainless steel, sandwiched between two pieces of sapphire crystal. The case is secured at all four corners with functional screws, a key design element in almost all Bell & Ross watches. A pull-out crown, engraved with the brand's iconic '&' symbol, is located on the right side of the case, and the watch is water-resistant to 50 meters.
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The truly interesting part is the dial. Or more precisely, the movement, because this watch has no dial at all. The movement is completely exposed, with only a pair of central hands indicating the hours and minutes. Rhodium-plated, micro-blasted, and polished hands are coated with Super-LumiNova for excellent legibility in the dark—that's all. No markers, no date display, no other indicators, just the purest time.
However, despite its sole function of telling time, there is much more to appreciate. The flat sapphire crystal and dialless design allow for an unobstructed view of the entire movement. This watch is powered by the BR-Cal.390 movement, a micro-rotor automatic movement developed in-house by Bell & Ross's long-term partner, Concepto. As the watch's name suggests, it uses a micro-rotor mechanism for winding, clearly visible from both sides. The movement vibrates at 28,800 vibrations per hour, with a 48-hour power reserve stored in a skeletonized mainspring barrel at 12 o'clock. The most striking feature is its near-grid structure. All components are arranged in vertical and horizontal lines, resembling a geographical map. Even the gear train follows the movement's lines neatly. The watch is finished in monochrome stainless steel and grey tones, with the only color accents coming from the visible jewels.
After experiencing this watch for a few days, I can honestly say it was quite refreshing. Yes, its legibility and adjustment accuracy might be questionable, as it lacks minute markers, let alone a second hand. But this was never an issue during my wear. As long as you set it precisely to the hour (which is very convenient thanks to its grid-like movement structure), you're practically guaranteed to be right.
What fascinates me is that Bell & Ross can still break free from the constraints of its aviation heritage to create equally striking, yet more avant-garde and design-oriented pieces. So, returning to my initial question, is it a true Bell & Ross watch? My answer is yes, despite its lack of aviation connection. It is beautifully designed, distinctive, and its modern architectural style is captivating. The Bell & Ross BR-X3 Micro-Rotor watch features a grey calfskin strap with alligator embossing and a stainless steel folding clasp.
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